My Background:
My mom is usually full of wisdom. And while during my teenage years, I fought against all her advice, unfortunately the one one tip I took to heart was the wrong one: using iodine and baby oil (along with a silver screen) can really help get that wonderful, tan glow. I supplemented this summer past-time with tanning beds as well. As a very fair, freckled lass, I had numerous burns and blistered. Thankfully, tanning eventually lost favor (unfortunately the news has not reached the Jersey Shore cast yet).

I have endured the removal and biopsy of many suspicious moles over the years. While all have been benign, I recently have one removed from my foot (worst place in the world to be cut into!) which did demonstrate cellular changes. Further cutting ensued, which thankfully removed all of the offending spot for the time being. I had begun daily sunscreen wear about two years ago, but upon moving to lovely, sunny Austin, knew that I would need to be much more diligent with my use. I used several drugstore brands and thought I had good results-no burning, no greasy skin, no breakouts.
Sunscreen Info:
Earlier this year, I learned that most of the sunscreens I used in the past had three main problems: they were full of toxic chemicals, they were hormone disruptors and they can create free radicals. Not only were these chemicals harmful to the environment, but it is unknown the effect these have on the development of cancer due to their free radical generating properties. While I assumed (as due most) that sunscreens were protecting me from skin cancer, they may actually be a contributing factor.
While I adore the sun, and moderate amounts are necessary for many reasons including getting enough vitamin D-it can also be deadly. About a year ago, a friend of mine died of metastatic melanoma. He was young (30s), in great health (ran marathons) and had a wonderful wife and family. It is time that skin cancer be taken seriously. The media makes it all so confusing: UVA vs UVB rays, chemical vs physical protection, SPF level. Until the FDA regulates the use of these chemical ingredients, we need to be informed about what products we are putting on our bodies. I thought it would be helpful if I would break down some of the definitions of the major players in sunscreen protection.
Chemical Blockers: Most sunscreens on the market today are chemical sunscreens. The chemicals are absorbed into the skin and “protect” your skin from sunburn by absorbing the UV light. They include compounds such as:
Avobenzone
- Synthetic ingredient (also known as Parsol 1789 & butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
- Protects against all UVA rays (UVA 1 and UVA 2) but not UVB
- Concentrations from 1% – 10%
- In sunlight, is broken down which reduces effectiveness and may increase toxicity
- Free radical generator
- Absorbed through skin
Benzophenones
- Organic compound (includes dixoybenzone & oxybenzone)
- First used in sunscreens in the 1950s
- Protect against UVA 2 and UVB
- Studies have shown irritation effects, including eczema
- Free radical generator
- Does not degrade in sunlight
- Absorbed through the skin and stored for up to five days
- Also used as a preservative
Cinnamates
- Includes cinoxate, ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamateoctyl methoxycinnimate
- Protects against UVB rays (most frequently used in sunscreens)
- Often used in combination with benzophenones
- Breaks down in sunlight
- Estrogenic effects
- Absorbed into the skin
- Fee radical generator
PABA & PABA Esters
- Also known as para-aminobenzoic acid
- Protects against UVB rays
- Causes allergic reactions
- Waterproof
Salicylates
- Includes homomenthyl salicylate, ocyl salicylate, & trienthanolamine salicylate
- First sunscreen used in the US
- Protects against UVB rays
- Breaks down in sunlight
- Weak UVB absorber and must be used with other UV filters
Physical Blockers: usually finely powdered minerals. They block UV rays by reflecting the rays (instead of absorbing them like chemical blocks do).
Zinc oxide
- Broadest range of protection of any physical and chemical filter
- Protects against UVA (both UVA 1 and UVA 2) and UVB rays
- Stable under sunlight
- Zinc oxide nanoparticals are more reactive (may promote free radicals) than zinc oxide power
- Anti-irritant
- May leave white film
Titanium Dioxide
- Protects against UVA (UVA 1 and UVA 2) and UVB rays
- Stable and does not break down in sunlight
- May promote reactions with other chemicals in sunlight
- Titanium dioxide nanoparticals have great reactivity and may create free radicals
- Not irritating
- Whitish tint
Product Review:
After extensively reading EWG’s sunscreen lists as well as countless other articles and personal reviews I decided to go with a mineral formula. As an acne sufferer, I had always used an oil-free sunscreen/lotion for my face and a separate sunscreen for my body. I had hoped in moving towards a mineral product that I could use one on both face and body, but this did not happen. Even amongst organic and natural brands, their labels are often misleading. It took several tries and trips to the store, searching online and rereading articles before I even could read the label of the bottle. Price was also a big factor. While you can’t put a price on health, I was not going to pay $30 to try a bottle out. Here are the three products I ended up selecting:
Sunscreen #1 (Jason Sunbrella’s Mineral Based Sunblock SPF 30): This sunblock is rated a 3 in the EWG database. Jason is a reasonably priced organic brand. However, like all products, you really have to read the labels as their “natural” products aren’t always that natural. Based on other reviews, this sunblock was decent, did not irritate skin and worked well. I was hesitant as it was only 30 SPF, but according to many reports, anything over 50 is really irrelevant. For daily use I was prepared to try 30, but for swimming and such I would prefer a higher SPF.
Ingredients: ACTIVE: Titanium Dioxide 8.0%, Zinc Oxidide 2.5%, INACTIVE: Aqua (Purified Water), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Vegetable Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Dimethicone, Gyceryl Laurate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Triethoxcaprylysilane, Anthemus Nobilus (Chamomile) Extract*, Castor Oil Phosphate, Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) Flower Extract*, Propylene Carbonate, Magnesium Sulphate, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate And Sodium Benzoate. *Certified Organic
Application: Mineral sunscreens are usually tough to rub in. This was no exception. It was very sticky and I had to really work to get it into my face and body. It left a whitish tint that did disappear pretty quickly. It seemed to have a bit of shimmer on my body.
Wear: After using this sunscreen once on my face, I suffered a horrible breakout on both my face and neck. I decided to never use in anywhere except my body again. I used this sunscreen on my body for about 2-3 weeks. During this time I was hiking all day one day in the sun and did not get burnt. I did reapply once after getting a bit sweaty. While I never burnt wearing this, my skin often felt tight and itchy. I was very surprised as many reviews talked about how they used this on their children due to the anti-irritant properties. Unfortunately, I was not one of them.
Removal: Even after wearing all day (and night), I would have to scrub it off in the shower the next morning.
Verdict: I left the rest of the sunscreen for my husband to use. I would forcefully remind him daily that he needed some sunblock so that he would use it up for me. He did not have problems with itching, breakouts or tight skin so it seems that my sensitive skin was probably at fault and not the product. I would not buy again, but it’s probably acceptable for a moderately-priced safe sunblock.
See follow up post for Devita reviews!
Check out these other articles about sunscreens:
Senator urges release of sunscreen chemical data
My Background:
My mom is usually full of wisdom. And while during my teenage years, I fought against all her advice, unfortunately the one one tip I took to heart was the wrong one: using iodine and baby oil (along with a silver screen) can really help get that wonderful, tan glow. I supplemented this ...